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Q&A Oil Leaks

 Lower end ck

*Gasket  Sealer

Oil leaks can be avoided by paying close attention to proper assembling of the VW Motor. 

Now if the case has been pried apart with a screw driver that's a different story. (We have seen JB Weld applied to nicks and scratches with good results.) 

The first thing we would like to make clear is we personally state "NO Silicon Seal"
We have seen lots of good motors destroyed by a small piece of Silicon Seal ground up by the oil pump and then sent to the bearings along with the oil. Silicon seal does more damage then dirt when it gets to the bearings.

Next point is that gasket Sealer is to be used only between the case halves and on the cam plug. Not
on Valve Cover gaskets or Push Rod tube seals.

Oil pump Studs use a sealing nut. And the Cam Plug requires gasket sealer. There is (1) 8mm studs
above the cam, on the flywheel end that requires a small paper gasket under the nut, or better yet use
the 8mm oil pump self sealing nut. See item # 29 ->nuts the one that holds the oil pump in place.

Valve Covers Gaskets, Push Rod tube seals etc. were designed to seal against a metal surface not
Paint or oil. "Bare Metal" to Gasket to "Bare Metal" is correct.

If you use the aftermarket Aluminum valve covers be sure to try them on first without the gasket,
making sure they set all the way down on the head. All VW heads were not cast the same and some
times the aluminum must be filed down a little before they will set on the gasket rail properly.

If your using the stock valve covers, it's also a good idea to set them on the head without the gasket
to see if they rock from end to end. Bent valve covers are caused by prying them off with a screwdriver.

Remember when tracking down oil leaks on the VW motor that oil can run up-hill. If the metal is hotter
above the oil leak the oil can go toward the hotter metal.

To find out approximately where the oil is coming from. Take the car to the car wash and do a good job cleaning under the motor. Then drive a short distance and check for oil on the engine case. If none
appears, then drive a little father and go back under the car for another check. Keep doing this until you see where the oil leak is.

If the Main bearings are loose in the case then replacing the rear seal is a waste of time. Excessive
crank end play is a good sign the main bearings might be loose. To check for end play grab the lower
pulley (on the Crank) and push & pull on it. You should feel little to no end play. The required end play is .004/.006" and when the oil is present it feels like none to maybe a very slight amount. If the pulley moves back and forth .010 or more then the main bearing is most likely moving in the case and it's time for a line bore.->*Check

When Pulling the flywheel *Check  and replacing the seal with a standard or HD seal make sure the
surface the seal rides on is in perfect shape. Also replace the "O" ring in the flywheel (12v systems) and check the end play and install the three shims before installing the rear seal not after installing seal.

If we have an oil leak from behind the flywheel *rear seal*ck we also like to check the case behind number three cylinder. This is where you will sometimes find a crack in the case. Especially on cases that have been bored for 92 or 94mm cylinders. Clean the area the best you can and the apply heat with a propane torch directly behind number three cylinder. If there is a crack the oil will pop out of the crack when the metal get warm to the touch.

If the Oil pressure relief valve ( valves (2) on 1970 & later ) is installed upside down or is sticking you will surely have oil leaks. Remember the short relief valve spring (2.44"to 2.52" long) goes next to the
flywheel end and the open end of the oil relief plunger goes down. If the case oil passages were not
cleaned completely a new rebuild will pull trash out of the oil galleys and can easily cause the oil relief
plunger to stick. 

When the seals under the oil cooler become hard and brittle with time or the nuts that hold the oil cooler on get loose, the fan will blow the oil all over the place. The only cure is to pull the fan housing and replace the cooler gaskets. Be sure to clean the oil cooler before replacing ( they very seldom go bad) Use the wrong oil cooler gasket and you can block oil from going through the cooler. If you are not positive about which one to use I would recommend the aftermarket gasket *ck instead of the stock rubbers.

If the crankcase is not vented properly or just to small for the engine size (1835cc and up require more
then the stock venting) you will have oil leaks. An easy way to check if this could be your problem is to pull out the oil dip stick and rev. up the motor, If you can see the oil rising in the dip stick tube, then its time to increase the crankcase venting or replace the rings to control blow by.

Important information on cleaning oil passages.->*Click

OK we have a thing about Silicon Seal so this is what we recommend to using.->*Ck

Dual Lip Rear Flywheel Oil Seal->*ck      A better way to seal the oil cooler->*ck

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   Victor Comp. Products Inc. **--Vic's--**  Phone 816-650-3535 • 230 S Hudson St., Buckner, Missouri, 64016, US