1800vw

1800vw Crankshaft

We 8-dowel all cranks to the "SPG" pattern.
This is the Standard Pattern for all VW cranks. See 8-Dowel for more information-> *Check

Please note that one dowel is not evenly spaced.
This insures the flywheel is always mounted in the same relation to the crank. (This is necessary when
the crank and flywheel are balanced as an assembly.)

The four extra dowels will have a tight fit and for this reason the End Play must be set with only the
original stock four dowels.

Factory recommended end play is .003/.005 with 3 shims installed

All three shims must be in place before installing seal.

After every thing is set and checked Only then are the new four dowels installed.
Note: It will be necessary to use a flywheel puller to remove the flywheel once all (8) dowels are
installed. Easy to make Puller-> *Click Easy way to check crank for cracks-> * Click

Be Sure to clean all dowel holes, Gland Nut threads and all Oil passages before installing the crank.

Most all 12-volt Flywheels use an "O" ring and the metal gasket. The Paper gasket is used on all
flywheels that have a step, instead of the grove for "O" ring. Most 40hp and 1300cc motors did not have the grove for the "O" ring so they used the paper gasket.
In order to use the late model 12v flywheel on early model cranks you must cut the flywheel I.D. to
2.165" diameter. Cut the inside diameter only down to the "O" ring grove. This will give clearance for the early crank and require the use of the paper gasket.

Many builders use the "O" ring and paper gaskets instead of the metal 12v gasket when setting end play.

We recommend using a HD Chromoly Gland Nut on all Non Stock Motors.-> *Ck
Be sure to check the gland nut in the crank before installing the flywheel. We have found some gland
nuts to bottom out or the diameter to be tight in some cranks.

Check that all dowels are lower then the flywheel surface before installing the gland nut.

Be sure to follow the torque figures supplied with you new Gland Nut.
The stock Gland nut torques to 217 ft lbs

HD Chromoly gland nuts torque to 250'# and can be reused.
The HD Chromoly gland nut will stand higher torque but the stock crank is the limiting factor and
maximum torque should be 250/270'# . More torque info--> *Click

We recommend using Loctite on the four stock dowels as they most likely will be a little loose. We also
Loctite the Gland Nut as an extra precaution.
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----- Oil Passages and Oil Cooler -----

Many Motors are ruined in the first 5 minutes because the Oil passages or the Oil cooler was not
cleaned properly.

As the old motor ages and the miles pile up the oil pump looses some of its push.
The sludge and other crud builds up in the oil cooler and in the ends of oil passages.
It just stays there and does little damage.

But when the new motor and new oil pump are installed the pressure suddenly goes way up and flushes
some of that built up crud straight to the new bearings.

All Oil passages must be thoroughly cleaned ( A 22 cal. gun barrel brush works great on crank
passages.)

Case Oil passages can be cleaned without removing the oil passage plugs. This can be done at the car
wash by plugging all but two oil passage holes with wooden dowels or pencils. Flush the oil passage in
both directions and then move the plugs around until you have flushed all the passages.

Some oil galleys have dead ends where they are factory plugged. Over time these dead end passages
fill with crud and metal chips that can do major damage to new bearings in just minutes. If you are
building a high-dollar motor it is best to drill out the factory oil passage plugs. to thoroughly clean all oil
passages. You will have to drill & tap each hole and install a plug after cleaning each passage. Note:
Buy the oil galley plugs before you drill out the stock plugs as they are sometimes hard to find.

0il coolers can be hot tanked and steam cleaned or purchase a new or rebuilt one.

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Victor Comp. Products Inc. **--Vic's--** Phone 816-650-3535 • 230 S Hudson St., Buckner, Missouri, 64016, US